| 摘要: | 在處理彈性針織物的過程中，精練是染色過程中的重要步驟，其目的在於去除經編經紗與彈性絲中的紡絲油劑與髒污，提升布料的吸水性能，從而解決染色不均及顏色不準確的問題。
本研究探討了不同精練劑濃度對兩種敏感色，翠藍色與灰色染色效果的影響，以尋求最佳精練劑及其濃度。
研究結果顯示，圓編布與經編布在低起泡性精練劑濃度為0.5 g/L至1.0 g/L的條件下，吸水性能最佳，且處理90秒後水分擴散面積有所提升。染色性質方面，圓編布在0.5 g/L精練劑下，翠藍色的明亮度最佳（-0.19）；在1.2 g/L濃度下，綠色色光最強（明度為-1.67）；0.5 g/L濃度時，藍色色光最佳（明亮度為1.15）。灰色染色在0.5 g/L與1.0 g/L濃度下顏色差異不明顯。 對於經編布，使用0.5 g/L複合精練劑時，翠藍色的明亮度達到最佳（-0.69）；在1.0 g/L濃度下，表現為綠色明度0.55；而在0.5 g/L濃度時明度表現最佳（明亮度為0.72）。灰色染色在0.5 g/L與1.0 g/L濃度下的顏色差異不顯著。 綜合分析表明，染色灰色時，0.5 g/L及1.0 g/L濃度效果相近；然而，翠藍色對處理條件更加敏感，需依據△E值進行評估。整體而言，最佳精練劑濃度為0.5 g/L或1.0 g/L。
In the processing of elastic knitted fabrics, scouring is a crucial step in the dyeing process. Its primary purpose is to remove spinning oils and impurities from warp-knitted yarns and elastic threads, thereby improving the fabric's water absorption and addressing issues of uneven dyeing and inaccurate coloration.
This study investigates the effects of different scouring agent concentrations on the dyeing performance of two sensitive colors, turquoise blue and gray, to identify the optimal scouring agent and its concentration. The results show that circular-knitted and warp-knitted fabrics exhibit optimal water absorption when treated with low-foaming scouring agents at concentrations of 0.5 g/L to 1.0 g/L. Additionally, the water diffusion area improved after 90 seconds of treatment. In terms of dyeing properties, circular-knitted fabrics achieved the best brightness for turquoise blue at 0.5 g/L (-0.19), the strongest green hue at 1.2 g/L (brightness of -1.67), and the best blue hue at 0.5 g/L (brightness of 1.15). For gray dyeing, there was no significant difference in color between the concentrations of 0.5 g/L and 1.0 g/L. For warp-knitted fabrics, the optimal brightness for turquoise blue was achieved at 0.5 g/L using a composite scouring agent (-0.69). At 1.0 g/L, the green hue was strongest, with a brightness of 0.55, while at 0.5 g/L, the blue hue achieved the best brightness (0.72). Similarly, gray dyeing showed no significant color differences between 0.5 g/L and 1.0 g/L concentrations. In summary, gray dyeing performance was comparable between 0.5 g/L and 1.0 g/L concentrations. However, turquoise blue was more sensitive to treatment conditions, requiring △E values for evaluation. Overall, the optimal scouring agent concentration for both colors was determined to be 0.5 g/L or 1.0 g/L. |
