前定型的張力對彈性聚酯針織布拉伸回復之研究

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題名:	前定型的張力對彈性聚酯針織布拉伸回復之研究 A Study on the Effect of Preboarding Tension on the Tensile Recovery of Elastic Polyester Knitted Fabric
作者:	林達偉 LIN，DA-WEI
貢獻者:	紡織產業碩士專班
關鍵詞:	尺寸穩定性前定型張力抗熱變形能力抗水洗變形能力抗應力變形能力 Dimensional stability preset tension heat deformation resistance washing deformation resistance stress deformation resistance
日期:	2025
上傳時間:	2025-03-14 13:14:11 (UTC+8)
摘要:	紡織品在染整、洗滌或穿著過程中會發生尺寸變化，影響外觀、手感和品質。良好的尺寸穩定性可防止變形、收縮或延展，對提升品質至關重要，若前定型張力過大，會過度拉伸織物，降低抗熱變形能力，優化流程可減少重修所帶來的時間、成本和能源浪費，降低不必要損失。當前定型張力過高時，織物經向容易過度拉伸，進而破壞其組織結構和紗線的完整性，使其失去應有的抗熱變形能力，當前定型張力為2.0 kg時，經編彈性網布的熱燙縮率表現最佳；而緯編彈性單面前定型張力在2.0 kg與2.5 kg時，呈現最佳，兩者之間差異不大。在抗水洗變形能力方面，經編彈性網布與緯編彈性單面布的水洗縮率均為前定型張力為2.0 kg的結果最佳；而3.0kg則顯示出明顯的過度拉伸現象。經編彈性網布的經向拉伸率最佳的前定型張力經向為2.0 kg與緯向為前定型張力3.0 kg；緯編彈性單面的經向拉伸率最佳的前定型張力經向為2.0 kg與緯向為前定型張力3.0 kg；在抗變形能力方面，經編彈性網布經向最適合的前定型張力為2.5 kg，緯向最適合的前定型張力為2.5 kg，緯編彈性單面經向最適合的前定型張力為2.0 kg，緯向最適合的前定型張力為2.5 kg。綜合結果得知，本研究經緯編彈性網布拉伸率的經向最好的為2.0 kg，而緯向最好的為3.0 kg，為了能讓經、緯向測試結果都能通過客戶核可與最有效節省能源與工程，在生產條件設定結果將選用中間值2.5 kg，因為此設定值可以讓織物的物理性質達到均衡的情況，因此經編彈性網布與緯編彈性單面布最適合生產的條件皆為前定型張力2.5 kg。 Textiles undergo dimensional changes during processes such as dyeing, finishing, washing, or wearing, which affect their appearance, feel, and overall quality. Good dimensional stability can prevent deformation, shrinkage, or stretching, and is crucial for enhancing quality. Excessive preset tension during pre-shaping can overstretch the fabric, reducing its heat deformation resistance. Optimizing processes can reduce time, costs, and energy waste caused by reworking, ultimately minimizing unnecessary losses. When preset tension is too high, fabrics tend to be overstretched in the warp direction, which damages their structure and yarn integrity, causing a loss of heat deformation resistance. The best heat shrinkage performance for warp-knitted elastic mesh fabric is achieved with a preset tension of 2.0 kg; for weft-knitted elastic single-sided fabrics, there is little difference between preset tensions of 2.0 kg and 2.5 kg, both performing well. In terms of washing deformation resistance, both warp-knitted elastic mesh fabric and weft-knitted elastic single-sided fabric show optimal washing shrinkage at a preset tension of 2.0 kg, while a preset tension of 3.0 kg shows significant overstretching. For warp-knitted elastic mesh fabric, the best warp stretch is achieved with a preset tension of 2.0 kg, and the best weft stretch is achieved with a preset tension of 3.0 kg. For weft-knitted elastic single-sided fabric, the best warp stretch is also achieved with a preset tension of 2.0 kg, and the best weft stretch with a preset tension of 3.0 kg. In terms of deformation resistance, the most suitable preset tension for warp direction in warp-knitted elastic mesh fabric is 2.5 kg, and for weft direction, it is also 2.5 kg. The most suitable preset tension for warp direction in weft-knitted elastic single-sided fabric is 2.0 kg, and for weft direction, it is 2.5 kg. In summary, this study shows that the best warp stretch rate is achieved with a preset tension of 2.0 kg, while the best weft stretch rate is achieved with a preset tension of 3.0 kg. To ensure both warp and weft direction test results meet customer approval and to effectively save energy and resources, production conditions should be set to the intermediate value of 2.5 kg to balance the fabric’s physical properties. Therefore, the optimal preset tension for both warp-knitted elastic mesh and weft-knitted elastic single-sided fabrics is 2.5 kg.
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