聚酯/尼龍纖維混紡花紗圓編針織物之紋路變化研究

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题名:	聚酯/尼龍纖維混紡花紗圓編針織物之紋路變化研究 The Study on Pattern of Polyester/Nylon Blended Segment Color Yarn for Circular Knitting Fabric
作者:	何治勲
贡献者:	紡織產業碩士專班
关键词:	麻花複合紗顏色佔比織造條件 melange yarn color ratio knitting conditions
日期:	2022
上传时间:	2023-03-23 10:45:56 (UTC+8)
摘要:	雙色麻花複合紗針織物為現今流行的運動休閒 (athleisure) 服飾之一。其使用分光儀對色的誤差很大，只能用目視對色，造成對色準確性很低，且紋路常隨著織造條件變化而有差異，造成許多品質爭議。本研究為分析雙色麻花複合紗色布的正、反面紋路顏色比例，使用聚酯/尼龍圓形半光加工絲 145D/192F、變化4種織造條件、經同批次前處理、染色(尼龍上色)、定型製程、用織物影像分析系統觀察並計算各組麻花複合紗色布顏色佔比差異。研究結果發現，二種紗絲的顏色佔比呈現高度負相關性，且織造條件中，以織造張力與顏色佔比差異的相關性最高。研究結果證明用覆蓋率分析的方法，能準確計算紗絲的顏色佔比，可做為對色作業的重要參考資料。織造張力的記錄和調整能減少品質爭議並提高生產再現性。 Nowadays, knitted fabrics made of two-tone mélange yarns have been widely used for producing prevailing athleisure wear. There are a lot of quality disputes because the color matching deviation of using the spectrometer is so high that it can only be visual tested, resulting in low color matching accuracy, and a variety of patterns can be made as the knitting conditions change. By way of measuring the color ratio via high-power microscope, this study is focused on analyzing the color ratio between the face side and back side for the tested fabric samples. First of all, four different knitting conditions are respectively used for making greige fabrics, which are all made with the same melange yarn—round-cross section, semi-dull 145D/192F. Then, all of the four greige fabrics proceed from pre-treatment, dyeing(for Nylon only), to finishing. All of the process throughout the same batch. Then, a microscope, especially served as the fabric image analysis system, is used to measure the color ratio and calculate the difference between both sides of these samples. It indicates that the color ratio of the two kinds of yarns shows a strong negative correlation and there is a strongest correlation between the fed-in tension and color ratio difference. It demonstrates that the method of coverage rate analysis can precisely calculate the color ratio of yarns, and it can be the important reference of color matching operation. The records and adjustment of fed-in tension can reduce quality disputes and improve production reproducibility
显示于类别:	[紡織工程學系] 博碩士論文

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