| 摘要: | 彈性聚酯織物在染深色時，分散性染料普遍會附著於彈性纖維表面，導致其汙染嚴重，造成水洗堅牢度經常出現不合格的情況，為使織物水洗堅牢度及顏色皆達標準，必須通過適當的還原洗淨工程及條件來達到合格的染色堅牢度。
本研究主要是針對彈性聚酯針織布染色後水洗汙染較嚴重的顏色如黑色、藏青色、大紅色進行實驗，利用三種不同的還原劑，分析pH值對氧化還原電位的變化，再藉由改變還原洗浴比、還原劑用量、還原洗溫度、還原洗持溫時間及精練劑用量，探討對水洗堅牢度及色彩值之影響。
由實驗結果可得知，隨著還原洗浴比、還原劑用量及還原洗溫度適當的增加，可有效提高水洗堅牢度。黑色、藏青色色布以浴比1：20、鹼性還原劑用量5g/L、還原洗溫度80℃及持溫時間20min下，可獲得較佳之水洗堅牢度；而大紅色色布以浴比1：10、鹼性還原劑用量5g/L、還原洗溫度80℃及持溫時間20min下，即可得到較理想之水洗堅牢度。染色樣布經由分光儀進行色彩值分析，在不同洗淨條件下，還原洗前後之樣布顏色變色性大部分皆差異不大。
When dyeing stretch polyester fabrics to a dark color, the disperse dyes will generally adhere to the surface of the stretch fiber, resulting in serious pollution and frequent unqualified color fastness to washing. Appropriate reduction cleaning process and conditions can be used to achieve qualified colorfastness.
This study is mainly aimed at the colors with serious water washing pollution after dyeing of stretch polyester knitted fabric, such as black, navy blue and bright red. Three different reducing agents are used to analyze the changes of pH value on oxidation-reduction potential, and then the effects of reducing bath ratio, amount of reducing agent, reduction clearing temperature, holding time of reducing clearing and amount of scouring agent on color fastness to washing and color value.
It can be seen from the experimental results that with the appropriate increase in the ratio of reducing bath, the amount of reducing agent and the temperature of reduction clearing, the color fastness to washing can be effectively improved. For black and navy blue colored fabrics, the best color fastness to washing can be obtained when the bath ratio is 1:20, the amount of alkaline reducing agent is 5g/L, the reduction clearing temperature is 80℃, and the temperature holding time is 20min. For the bright red colored fabrics, the ideal color fastness to washing can be obtained when the bath ratio is 1:10, the amount of alkaline reducing agent is 5g/L, the reduction clearing temperature is 80℃, and the temperature holding time is 20min. The dyed samples were analyzed by spectrophotometer for color value, under different clearing conditions, the discoloration of the sample before and after reduction clearing is mostly not different. |
