不同結構藍色系分散性染料對r-PET彈性針織物染色之色牢度研究

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题名:	不同結構藍色系分散性染料對r-PET彈性針織物染色之色牢度研究 Investigating the Color Fastness of r-PET Elastic Knitted Fabrics Dyed by Blue Disperse Dyes with Various Structures
作者:	鄭文嘉
贡献者:	紡織產業碩士專班
关键词:	上色率染色堅牢度染料特性分散性染料回收聚酯彈性針織物 Dye uptake ratio Dyeing fastness Dye properties Disperse dyes Recycled PET knitted fabrics
日期:	2022
上传时间:	2023-03-02 10:21:09 (UTC+8)
摘要:	本研究以六支不同藍色系分散性染料(單偶氮型、蒽醌型、雜環型)之發色團與助色基團結構為研究對象，以固定織物種類、染程、染色助劑與用量、染色浴比(liquor ratio)為控制變因，以染料三個不同指標濃度(%owf)為操作變因進行下染、還原洗淨以及酸中和。在各自25%~75%上色率中，探討與評估不同染料對回收聚酯(r-PET)彈性針織物的色彩因子變化、還原洗前後的ΔECMC(2:1)值、不同染料對r-PET與OP纖維兩者材料的染色親和特性、還原洗淨後的染著特性與同色調性，以及在r-PET彈性針織物下整體的牢度評級。由實驗結果得知六支不同結構分散性染料隨著各自上色率的增加，皆會使ΔECMC(2:1)值降低；在染色親和特性上，不同染料皆對OP纖維表現出較r-PET纖維佳的親和特性，而雜環型分散性染料在OP纖維上有較為優異的還原洗淨後染著特性，又因染料結構的影響，使在25%~75%上色率中皆有4.5級的變褪色堅牢度，以及5級的污染堅牢度。 The study focuses on chromophore (Monoazo, Anthraquinone, Heterocyclic) and auxochrome of six different blue disperse dyes. Using certain fabrics, dyeing process, dyeing auxiliaries and dosage, and dyeing liquor ratio as control variables, and the three of different indicative dyes concentrations (% owf) as operating variables to be dyeing, reduction cleaning and acid neutralization. In the respective 25% ~ 75% dye uptake ratio, the color factor changes, ΔECMC value of before and after reduction cleaning, dye affinity of dyeing, build-up properties of after reduction cleaning, on tone properties and color fastness rating on the recycled PET (r-PET) elastic knitted fabrics were discussed and evaluated. From the experimental results, it is known that the six disperse dyes with various structures will decrease the ΔECMC(2:1) value with the increase of their respective dye uptake ratio. In dye affinity of dyeing, different dyes have better dye affinity for OP fibers than r-PET fibers. The heterocyclic disperse dyes have better build-up properties of after reduction cleaning on OP fibers, and because structure influence, it have 4.5 level change in color fastness grade and 5 level staining fastness grade in the 25% ~ 75% dye uptake ratio.
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