本研究以T+OP混紡織物為基材探討一般染灰色系顏色的第一次對色率很低之可能因素,以及提升其第一次對色率之可行性。此亦是化驗室和現場的一大困擾。本研究擬藉由熱定型之拉伸後處理來改變產品的色外觀,以期提高其一次對色率。由實驗結果顯示在拉伸率逐漸變大的同時明度會逐漸上升,發現拉伸率在明度上有明顯的變化,經過拉伸率1%、3%、5%拉伸之後可以提升三種灰色樣本之第一次對色率最高可達到14%,由此可見可以透過拉伸率來達到客戶所要求的標準。一來是為了減少布面下缸修色造成對T+OP混紡織物中彈性纖維的損傷,二來減少在染色時需要的時間、水、助劑的成本及用量;最後是減少下缸修色時所產生的助劑斑,讓公司所染的布到交期前順利出貨。
The substrate of T + OP blended fabric used in this study is to investigate the possible factors resulting in generally lowering the first-color-match ratio as it being dyed, and the feasibility of creating a method to increase that ratio. That is always a big problem to the people working at the laboratory and field in a dyeing and finishing mill. Here, an elongating treatment after heat-setting one on the dyed substrate tested is adopted to change its color appearance, and to raise its first-color-match ratio. The results showed that the elongating treatment had a very significant effect on the color-appearance lightness of dyed substrate specimens. It obviously indicates that the lightness of the tested specimens would gradually become higher after those were treated with the tensile rate from 1%, 3%, to 5% individually. That also makes the first-color-match ratio increased, and it is found that the ratio can reach to the largest one 14%. This achievement can make the re-dyed ratio of the substrate tested , the cost on dyeing-process duration and the dosage of water, dye and auxiliary agent decreased, and then the company get great profit.