| 摘要: | 聚酯針織物在分散性染料染色完成後，通常有些許染料未進入聚酯纖維的非結晶區，而殘留於織物表面造成浮色之現象，故必須進行還原洗來將織物表面染料還原洗淨，有些會因染料類型、配方濃度或不適合的還原洗條件等，而需要進行二次還原洗，色牢度才可以達到標準，但程序耗時繁鎖、助劑易過量而造成色光異變等。本研究在不改變染色配方情況下，針對鹼性還原洗的浴比改變進行探討，條件分別為浴比1:10、1:10洗滌兩次、1:20與1:30，並選擇色牢度較差之深丈青、黑色及紫紅色色系配方來進行實驗，之後以分光儀測色，分別以之布面均染性測試、K/S值分析、水洗色牢度及pH值來探討，最後統整各項浴比製程所需能耗來進行比較。
研究結果發現，黑色系和深丈青色系以浴比1:20進行還原洗在色光、色牢度及能耗方面表現都較優，因此推薦使用此浴比製程進行還原洗滌；而紫紅色系則建議使用浴比1:30來進行還原洗可以達到較好的色牢度。
After the polyester dye has been dyed by the disperse dye, usually some dye does not enter the crystallization zone of the polyester fiber, and the residual color on the surface of the fabric causes floating phenomenon. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out reduction washing to reduce the dye on the surface of the fabric. Some will need to carry out the second reduction washing due to the type of dye, the concentration of the formula or the unsuitable reduction washing conditions, etc., the color fastness can reach the standard, but the program is time-consuming and complicated, and the additive is too much to cause color change. Wait. In this study, the bath ratio of alkaline reduction washing was changed without changing the dyeing formula, and the bath ratio was 1:10, 1:10, twice, 1:20 and 1:30, and the color fastness was poor. The deep blue, black and purple color formula is used for the experiment, and then the spectrophotometer color measurement, fabric level dyeing test, K/S value analysis, water wash color fastness and PH value are discussed. Finally, each is integrated. The bath is compared to the energy required for the process.
The results show that the black and deep blue color are better in terms of color, light fastness and energy consumption when the bath ratio is 1:20. It is recommended to use this bath to reduce the washing than the process; It is recommended to use a bath ratio of 1:30 for reduction washing to achieve better color fastness. |
