| 摘要: | 長纖維織物於織造過程中會有應力產生，而應力消除此項工程通常與退漿精練工序一併進行，若應力無適當將其消除將會影響織物的伸縮率、手感、碼重、表面外觀(條斑)及色澤等。本研究是以染整現場之加工方式，針對選定之一組聚酯彈性針織布經由不同之縮練設備，比較其尺寸安定性之變化，精練設備主要分為縮練機、L型溢流式染色機(上走式染色機、下走式染色機)、智慧型輸送帶式高溫定速染色機四種。
再分別將經由不同精練設備之聚酯彈性針織布，從胚布→精練→預定型→染出成品定型，這幾項工段分別測試拉伸回復率、熱燙收縮率、尺寸變化等，比較其物理性質差異性。
由研究結果觀察出經由溢流染色機處理之前處理工程效果，乃由於反應時間與溫度等作業條件不同，以致尺寸安定性較差，意旨由溢流染色機進行前處理工程之除去不純物效果較佳，但由於溢流染色機作業時其能源消耗較高與耗時等情事，故使用縮練機進行前處理之訴求日益頻繁。
Long fiber fabrics are stressed during the weaving process, and the stress relief process is usually carried out with the desizing process. If the stress is not properly removed will affect the fabric's stretch, feel, code weight, surface appearance (strip) and color. This study is based on the dyeing and finishing of the processing methods, for the selected one of the group of polyester elastic knitted fabric through different compression equipment, compared to its dimensional stability changes, scouring equipment is divided into profiler, L-type overflow Dyeing machine (on the walk-type dyeing machine, the next walk-type dyeing machine), intelligent conveyor belt high-temperature dyeing machine four.
And then will be through different scouring equipment, polyester elastic knitted fabric, from the embryo cloth → scouring → pre-determined → finished product stereotypes, these sections were tested tensile recovery rate, hot shrinkage, size changes, etc. Differences in physical properties.
It is observed from the results of the study that the effect of the treatment before the treatment by the overflow dyeing machine is different due to the different working conditions such as the reaction time and the temperature, so that the dimensional stability is poor, and the effect of removing the impurity by the pretreatment process by the overflow dyeing machine is better, However, due to overflow dyeing machine operating when its energy consumption is high and time-consuming and so on, so the use of conventional equipment before the application of the increasing demand. |
