| 摘要: | 本文分別針對高支數純棉紗及聚酯異斷面(十字)纖維低毛羽短纖混紡紗(PET/Cotton、PET/Rayon、PET/Tencel)，進行追撚並探討撚度對其紗線物性影響之分析。實驗中高支數純棉紗線採用雙股追撚(Z+Z→Z)，撚度分別為700、1,000、1,300TPM；聚酯異斷面(十字)纖維低毛羽短纖混紡紗線採用單股追撚(Z→Z) 撚度分別為400、700、1,000TPM。實驗結果顯示：在純棉高支數紗線追撚部分，採用Z 撚追撚較傳統S 撚追撚，除了可以使高支數純棉紗線結構更為紮實，紗線品質改善，且3mm 以上長毛羽可以大幅減少。在混紡紗追撚部分，因採用單紗Z 撚追撚，當撚度超過400TPM 時，已超過飽和撚，三種混紡紗紗線強力均呈現下降趨勢，三種混紡紗中，強力大小順序為PET/Tencel＞PET/Rayon＞PET/Cotton。在混紡紗3mm 以上毛羽數部分，毛羽數量順序分別PET/Tencel＞PET/Cotton＞PET/Rayon。隨著追撚撚度增加毛羽數減少，當撚度達1,000TPM 時呈現大幅減少(＜25 根/100m)，而3 種混紡紗毛羽數已相差不大。
In this study, the twisting effect of pure cotton and＋shape cross-section polyester blend yarn on its yarn properties were discussed. During the twisting process of cotton yarn, the different twisting conditions of twofolds high-count cotton yarn (Ne100/1 and Ne80/1) were set at 700、1,000、1,300TPM (twisting direction Z+Z →Z). During the twisting process of the ＋shape cross-section polyester blend yarn (PET/Cotton, PET/Rayon and PET/Tencel), the different twisting conditions of single-fold blend yarn (Ne40/1) were set at 400、700、 1,000TPM (twisting direction Z→Z). From the results, during the twisting process of cotton yarn, the yarn structure of Z+Z→Z twisting process could be more dense than the yarn structure of Z+Z→S twisting process, and the numbers of over 3mm long hairiness could be substantially reduced. During the twisting process of the polyester blend yarn, all of three blend yarns showed the tensile strength lost when the twisting condition set over 400TPM, , tensile strength order of three blend yarns was PET/Tencel＞PET/Rayon＞PET/Cotton, and the order of the numbers of over 3mm long hairiness of three blend yarns was PET/Tencel＞PET/Cotton＞PET/Rayon. The numbers of yarn hairiness decreased with increasing yarn TPM, the numbers of yarn hairiness substantially decreased (＜25/100m) when the twist condition set over 1,000PPM, and the difference of hairiness numbers of three blended yarns was close. |
