論Vivienne Westwood時尚藝術精神之反叛與認同

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Title:	論Vivienne Westwood時尚藝術精神之反叛與認同
Authors:	傅佩玲
Contributors:	藝術研究所美術組碩士在職專班
Keywords:	龐克文化 Punk Punk 後現代主義服飾 postmodernism 創新與顛覆 innovation and subversion
Date:	2011
Issue Date:	2012-12-13 09:04:51 (UTC+8)
Abstract:	Vivienne Westwood（薇薇安‧魏斯伍德，1941-）是20世紀最具影響力的時裝設計師之一，在流行文化推演的遞嬗之間，她的作品始終不斷地建構出獨特的創新價值與顛覆語彙。　　1970年代，薇薇安‧魏斯伍德在馬克賴倫（Malcolm Robert Andrew McLaren，1946-2010）的帶領下，進入時尚流行服飾的設計領域裡，爾後，薇薇安‧魏斯伍德遂即成為「龐克」（Punk）服飾文化的開創者，並帶給20世紀的服裝產業極大的影響力，使得龐克潮流成為英國時尚的代表性風格。　　在告別龐克文化之後的薇薇安‧魏斯伍德，揉合了傳統衣著元素與後現代主義（Postmodernism）精神的服裝設計，將其創作推上世界時尚舞台的彼端。薇薇安‧魏斯伍德汲取歷史文化和社會背景養分所激發出的創作理念，象徵著人們在前衛思想與傳統價值抗禮之間的生存情境，而她在設計過程中所歷經的衝擊、矛盾、分裂，以及經由結合所衍生出的創作精神，皆詮釋了現今人類社會正存在的文化現象與反思意涵。　　本論文將深入地探討薇薇安‧魏斯伍德如何以物我無間的觀點在當下社會處境的疊映中，尋求對話題材、並激起人們觀看議題的方式，以及她如何地將創新文化語彙與反對傳統體制的思維，展現在服飾作品之中，並賦予「後現代」的觀點。直至今日，薇薇安‧魏斯伍德仍持續在時尚界裡，占有不可磨滅的服裝史地位。　　As one of the most influential fashion designers,of the 20th century, Vivienne Westwood (1941~) has unceasingly demonstrated innovations and subversions in the field of clothing design, amidst the evolution of Pop-Culture. 　　Led by Malcolm McLaren, Vivienne Westwood began her professional career as being a fashion designer in 1970’s. In the following years, she introduced the Punk into popular clothing, which successfully became one of the most important symbols of English fashions. 　　After Punk, she sublimated her designs by combining the traditional values and the so-called vanguard thoughts of post-modernism. She observed that, in the long history, people were always confused with the conflicts between the old traditional society and the upcoming new world. After such collisions, the society would face the following contradiction, dissociation, and finally reunion. After combining these factors, Westwood developed a new framework in her design, which made her reach a new peak in her professional career. 　　This thesis will discuss how Vivienne Westwood used the overlapse of unison and immediate social affairs, cultivating commentaries while inspiring new perspectives on issues. As well the integration of her fashion design through the expression of culture vocabulary innovation and rebellion against traditional beliefs, giving birth to the “Post Modern” perspective. Even now Vivienne Westwood is still influential and indelible in the fashion industry, making her an iconic figure.
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