| 摘要: | 本文探討宋代至清代的文獻中，有關豆腐加工與烹調的相關記載。從宋代起始，依循宋、元、明、清各朝代的演進，探討豆腐文化的發展變遷，解析歷代豆腐的加工方式和製備的特色。發現古代豆腐，加工的基本過程以及使用的凝固劑，大致與現在相同。較特別的是製作豆腐的原料，不限於大豆，有些文獻中採用的是黑豆、白豆、豌豆、綠豆，或採取不同豆類混合。 《湖雅》中則直接使用黃豆粉作豆腐，省略浸豆、磨豆、濾渣的步驟，簡化豆腐的加工程序。除了普通豆腐外，明清兩代的文獻中，已經記載有豆漿、豆皮和各種腐乳、豆乾的加工法。更有許多利用植物膠或澱粉作凝固劑的「加色腐」資料。而豆腐的烹調方式，從宋代到明代，多採用素燒的烹調法，在飲食供應上，大體被歸類為「素饌」。到了清代，才出現大量的豆腐葷燒菜餚。除沿襲宋、明兩代，善加應用天然香花與乾果的烹調特色外，還選用各種葷鮮食材烹煮豆腐，使豆腐文化更趨於多元，也更深植民間。
This paper discusses the records relating to the manufacture and cooking of tofu in the documents from the Song dynasty to the Ching dynasty, and analyzes the manufacture methods and culinary features in different dynasties, to explore discussing the development and changes of tofu culture.
The writer finds that the basic process of tofu-manufacture and the coagulants used in the ancient times were basically the same with those used today. The difference between antient and modern times is the material for tofu. In the records, the material for tofu was not confined to soybeans. There were also black soybeans, pea beans, peas, mung bean, and mixture of beans. The recipe in Hu-ya specifically skips the steps of soaking, grinding, and filtration but by using soybean powder directly, and simplifies the manufacture process. Besides plain tofu, there are also recipes of soybean milk, yuba, fermented soybean curd, and hard soybean curd in the documents of Ming and Ching dynasty. There is also in these documents with much information about the "colored tofu," using plant gum or starch for coagulant.
As to the culinary method, from the Song dynasty to the Ming dynasty, tofu was mostly used in vegetarian recipes, and was classified as 'vegetarian diet'. Since the Ching dynasty, many tofu dishes with meat appeared. The Ching dynasty not only followed the custom of Song and Ming dynasty, adding flowers and dry fruits in tofu dishes, but also appling meat and fish in tofu dishes, making the tofu culture more diverse and more deeply rooted in the everyday life of Chinese people. |
