| 摘要: | 本研究係以超細纖維麂皮織物與紡粘長纖預染不織布為基材，並分別施以不同濃度的架橋劑與水性聚氨酯之浸漬處理，以及不同壓輥壓力之實驗條件予以壓吸處理，再進一步對超細纖維麂皮織物進行染色加工，而後探討其水性PU成膜特性和加工布之物性及染色性研究，由實驗結果顯示:
架橋劑用量對壓吸率及增重率有顯著之影響，即可以改善超細纖維紡粘長纖染色不織布之加工壓吸率及增重率,而且隨架橋劑濃度增加而其壓吸率及增重率均增大。另外，對於抗張強力影響方面，則以架橋劑濃度2.5％時抗張強力表現為最佳，而伸度方面則以橫向的拉張伸度大於縱向。同時，濕摩擦色牢度呈現漸進式的改善。PU加工不織布的撕裂強力縱向平均值比原布縱向有增加的趨勢(約13.5%)，而橫向方面則兩者較接近，其表示水性PU在超細纖維紡粘長纖不織布的縱向有較佳的結合力。再者，4% NAWAN28架橋劑為其藍色不織布最佳耐磨強度的添加濃度，而且PU加工後其色外觀有明顯深化的效果。
水性PU加工的超細纖維麂皮織物方面，其經染色後顯示纖維與水性PU對於染料均有相當的親合力，以及良好的染色堅牢度。另外，在Martindale耐磨擦測試顯示40%水性PU加工時其耐磨程度比未經加工者最高可增加3倍。同時，經不同濃度的水性PU加工處理後，其強力在經向及緯向都有增加。同時，其撕裂強度、強伸度、爆破強度、耐磨強度、耐水洗染色堅牢度、耐磨擦染色堅牢度等物性的綜合評估上亦均有很大的改善。
ABSTRACT
The substrates microfiber suede and spunbond non-woven pre-dyed fabrics were used in this study, and dipped with water-based polyurethane (PU) contained different concentrations of bridging agents respectively, padded in different roller-pressure conditions separately, and followed by colorizing the pre-PU-treated suede fabric. Finally, the formability of water-based PU film and physical and dyeing properties of the fabrics treated with water-based PU in this study were examined. The results show that the usage amount of bridging agent has significant effect on the ratios of padding and weight-growing. That is, those of spunbond non-woven pre-dyed fabric treated with water-based PU can be improved, becoming larger when the concentration of bridging agent used increasing. In addition, for on the tensile strength, it has the highest one as the concentration of bridging agent is 2.5%, and for on the elongation, the lateral tensile elongation is greater than the longitudinal one. Meanwhile, the dyeing wet-rubbing fastness shows gradually improved. Again, there exists a tendency that the longitudinal average value of tear strength of the PU-treated non-woven pre-dyed fabric is larger than that of the original one (about 13.5%) while both close to each other for the lateral one. That indicates that the water-based PU can have more adhesive force with spunbond filament in the longitudinal aspect of the spunbond nonwoven fabric. Moreover, the spunbond nonwoven fabric tested has the best abrasion resistance at concentration of 4% NAWAN28 bridging agent, and significantly deepening effect in appearance after finished with PU. Furthermore, for the microfiber suede fabric treated with the water-based PU after dyed, it shows that both fibers and PU all have good affinity with dyes, having good dyeing fastness. In addition, in the Martindale abrasion test, it indicates that the suede fabric treated with 40% of the water-based PU has greater degree of abrasion resistance than the original by up to 3 times. Meanwhile, the strengths in both warp and weft aspects of the suede fabric finished in terms of different concentrations of water-based PU are all increased. At the same time, on the whole estimation, its tear strength, tensile elongation, bursting strength, abrasion resistance, dyeing washing and abrasive fastness, etc. physical properties all are greatly improved. |
